#Homelite Chainsaw Xl2 Auto Parts Manuals To Help

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The only markings I could find on the carb said Tillotson 3. Well, I take the carb off and head to our local shop to see if I can get a rebuild kit for the carb. Seemed a little better, but still wouldn't run right. I dumped the old gas and tried it.

Also have an adjustment screw the sets next to the throttle lever that the trigger works. This little carb only seems to have a L adjustment, the H hole seems to not be an option from the factory. So I'm thinking that I don't have something adjusted right on the carb.

Homelite Chainsaw Xl2 Auto Parts Manuals To Help

What are some general starting points on the adjustment screws on the carb? I take them down and back them both out 1 1/2 turns. Our Price: 5.99.Homelite UT-10618 gas chainsaw parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way1. NOT THESE FUEL AND OIL CAPS ARE FOR EXTERNAL THREADED TANKS ONLY AND FOR SAWS THAT DO NOT USE A PRIMMER ON THE FUEL TANK. A HIGH QUALITY GAS AND OIL CAPS FOR HOMELITE CHAIN SAWS, GASKET IS INCLUDED WITH EVERY CAP. HOMELITE.HOMELITE SUPER 2, XL, XL2, 180, 200, LIL RED, GAS & OIL CAPS, A65375, A97359,NEW. So here are my main questions.HOMELITE.

I had seem some schematics on the Internet that suggested that one did go there. Me and my dad love our old Homelite chainsaws, and I'm sure alot of you guys consider them junk saws, but we always seem to grab them over our Stihls because they're just fun to use!To be honest, I don't know if a duckbill valve goes in the gas tank or not. Can any of you think of something I might be missing here?Just want to thank any of you all ahead of time to help me out here. Anyone know where I can get parts for a saw this old?4. Where can I get a parts list and schematic for this chainsaw? No UT# on the saw, just a serial # 50371196. I seem to be getting spark, but what's the gap supposed to be from the coil to the flywheel?3.

At first I couldn't get it to spark, so I went back and tried to set the points as well as I could. I didn't gob it on, but used a nice little bead all around and let it set up good before I put it together. I used RTV between the 2 halves of the case. Cleaned everything up as well as I could and put it back together. The cylinder looked great, piston looked good too.

Just point me in the right direction guys. What am I missing here? Would a bad condenser act like this? Can a condenser start to cut out as it gets hotter if it's bad? Air leaks? If air leaks, where do I need to be looking? I'm sure this is something simple that I'm overlooking. I've taken the carb apart several times and I'm sure it's back together right. I can get the thing started, and it will run really good at WOT, but when I let off the throttle it just dies. However, it's acting the same as before.